About Me

Wednesday, February 20, 2019

Local Travels

At now 3 weeks this Thursday since my arrival day in Italy/Aviano, I have made every effort to get out and explore as much as I can. Both near and far, or at least as far as my very tiny rental car can get me in an hour so. Let me offer a quick rundown of 3 really cool combo trips/places I have explored in just the past 2 weeks. I say combo because the towns are so close and small that you can easily hit both within a few hours and still get a good feel of the area. I can promise you that any visitors I get will be sure to see these locations to as they make for easy day trips just 30 minutes or less from where I will be living at permanently.

Polcenigo & San Giovanni- 15 minutes drive from Aviano (Sunday Feb 17)

I hit up the Saturday mercato (market) in the morning and then made a visit to the museum of culinary arts and history. Its small but still does a grand job of showcasing the unique and old ways of culinary traditions, dishes, foods, recipes etc....of food and cooking from the area. Trout, pasta dishes, seasoned meats, cheeses, roasted veggies, and other simple dishes were abundant simply because for a long while that is all they had to work due to food scarcity. Creative talents had to make the foods they had taste good. A few restaurants in the area are known for keeping to long-held traditional recipes. I did not get to try any but several have trout on the menu and that has my attention. Driving through the town center there are churches, shops, pastry shops, cafes and pizzzerias to hit up as well. Going through town you come out a few km later in San Giovanni where I stopped at St. Flouriano Rural Park. I freaking loved it! A 4 mile look trail that has marked trees to keep you on path. The sites, sounds, views and trail is gorgeous. A creek runs along a good section of the path and then turns into the main waterway through Polcinego. I can see where trout would be a readily available and assessable in season for the locals here. Part of the trail leading to the farm/trail/restaurant is up the hill for about .5 miles and its all straight up so get ready for glute burn city! The views you get of Polcinego on the way up make it SO worth it! At the top stop at one of the 2 restaurants for wine and appetizer or take a look around at the animals raised right there on site.


view from hill trail looking due east of san giovanni




river along walking path in st floriano rural park

view of pelcinego from part way up hill trail due north



Poffabro & Frisanco- 25 minutes drive north of Aviano (just minutes passed Maniago) Monday Feb 18)

Seeing how close these twin towns or more correctly called "Borgos" were from Maniago, I had to come back asap to see them with my own eyes. So glad I did! These small little villages have about 300-400 people as a population. From one village you can see over to the other clearly. Both are quite as can be, peaceful, mellow and drip of traditional vibes of old Italian culture. 2 small cafes and 1 small trattoria is all both towns had for hospitality offerings. Poffabro actually had a small grocery store that was smaller than most any American gas station. Oh and a post office no bigger than a small 7-11. The homes are all wood and rock. The streets are rock and brick, the city centers (centro) is right situated next to the city municipality building, the clock/bell tower and church (as all towns seem to do here....I mean all of them!) Poffabro had an amazing smell of burning hickory somewhere and it made it all the more alluring to stay longer and soak in the local village vibe. The two Borgos are 2 of the most highly rated (Frisanco/Poffabro) places to visit for "most beautiful" sites to see in all of Italy. I can see why now.




view into paffarbo from frisanco
church in paffabro city center

panoramic shot of mountains from frisanco


view out of town from city center in paffabro

town walk ways in paffabro

stairs all over the city to go up and down from home to home


Maniago & Montereale 20 minutes drive north of Aviano (Saturday Feb 16)

I made a half day trip up to see both of these neighboring towns mainly because Manigo is known worldwide for its famous cutlery making history and production to this day. They make some of the best quality knives and cut ware anywhere. Maniago crafted blades, swords, armor, and knives have been used in major motion pictures such as Troy, Gladiator, 47 Ronin, Blade, and The Last Samurai. In June 2018, several Maniago based manufactures of several kinds of blades were awarded top spots at the annual world Blade Show in Atlanta, GA. The town itself has a big open piazza in the center of town just blocks from the Cutlery Museum which I also toured. Seeing the beginnings of what is now a world beacon of the master art of cutlery manufacturing, priceless! The piazza has many shops, cafe's, pastry shops and restaurants for locals and tourist to enjoy as well. Le Strane Delizie has outstanding pastries! Montereale was simply beautiful. A quiet, quaint and charming feel to the town with more houses than apartments or condos as I am used to seeing. If it were not quite so far from work, I'd have really considered living here simply because of how gorgeous the town is, the streets, the houses, the city center and the views. Many good family-owned trattorias in the area to get a real deal Italian meal fix for sure.

made 100% of blade parts

Sabre used in movie 'Blade'

bad-ass knife!




Le Strane Delizie Pastry Shop, Maniago


Costa- About to be home!

This one I add for a quick fore-shadow of what is to be my own new permanent "casa" or home in Italy. Its a short 2km from the Aviano city center and 7km from the gate entrance to the AFB. I am still going to be just 20 minutes from Sacile or Pordenone, the largest major cities in the area. My place will be off the nearest "major" road set back in the small little village of Costa, a locality inside Aviano, the bigger main city. My place is literally at the base of the Dolomite mountain range and 2km away from the main road that takes people up to Piancovallo, the major ski resort/village/resort/school and slopes. Bikers love the road ride up and down, hikers love it, runners love it, motorcyclist love it.....everyone loves the way leading to Piancovallo. I learned very quickly, this is THE place to do fun outdoors stuff year round. Time to bust out my skis again I guess! Inside pictures to come March 1st which is move in day! The inside is amazing I'll tell you that much.

whole 2nd floor is mine
the surrounding area is so peacefull

2 bed, 2 bath, living room and garage and private, gated driveway




As you already know in previous posts, I have found a killer good eats place just up the road 5 minutes drive, called Due Lune. Its a family owned long-standing Italian restaurant that serves lunch and dinner. Its rated the #1 most popular restaurant in Aviano on TripAdvisor out of 27 listed venues in town. I am going to be a regular there for sure. Plus I get to practice my Italian ever time I go in and speak with the awesome staff there too.



Ciao miei amici. A piu tardi.

Tuesday, February 12, 2019

What really stands out?

View from behind the Basilica Papale of Santa Maria Maggiore. "Chrome Dome" as called by locals. 1 KM from my soon to be new home.
View in front of the Basilica, camera facing Aviano. I am facing the Basilica. 


Now after 13 days living, working and learning all things here in Italy, I thought it would be worth doing a blog post that points out the biggest differences I have found so far. What are the biggest cultural norms and local customs here in Aviano, IT that differ quite a bit from what I am used to in the states? Here is where I will do just that by showing the different domains that I continue to find peculiar and interesting. I am sure more are yet to come as I explore and engage with all that is Italian geography, people, food and culture.

Grocery Shopping:

Grocery stores are at first much like US grocers, all different sizes from super small to very large. No Wal-Marts or Costco or Targets here though. Nothing like that. The common differences I found are as follows.
  • No bags for you! OK so you can get plastic or paper bags but you will pay for them. Almost everyone brings in their own reusable bags.
  • Water bottles are sold by the liter in packs for 4 to 8 and you can buy the pack or tear it open and take just 1. They have water in the form of sparking, fizzy, natural and mineral water. They also have nearly an entire aisle in most stores for just bottled water! Mostly because people and restaurants and even hotels do not offer tap water. Just bottled. 
  • All shopping carts function like Aldi does in the states (because Aldi is German-owned after all) require a 1 Euro coin or US quarter to unlock it from the cart rack. 
  • Nutrition facts panels are all based on a 100g ( that's 3.5 oz) fixed, standard serving size regardless of food or drink source. This is more an EU thing than just an Italian thing. They will NOT list the total number of servings per unit (rarely do they). So you must know the full unit size to know how many servings you get and the nutrient content within that product you wish to buy. 
  • The bakery sections have more loaves of bread and rolls available than I have ever seen in a store of any kind. Each with its own name and shape and color and hardness. Most also have hot baked fresh thin crust pizza of 3-4 types available at any time from brick ovens. 



Dining Out

Branzino, spinach entree from Casabianca, Aviano
Grilled vegetables side dish from Casabianca, Aviano


As one who dines out allot in general, but even more so now with my having very limited means to store or prep foods in my hotel since arriving here, have gotten an almost daily exposure to Italian dining from casual to fine dining. These are the major notes I made.

  • Almost all places have a 1-3 Euro cover charge just for coming in and sitting down. The more high end the venue, the higher the "coperto" charge is. 
  • You are charged for water even if you don't ask for it.....it will show up unless you state you want nothing to drink at all. You typically can get a small 250ml or large 750ml water in sparkling or natural options. It's about 1.50 to 2.50 Euro. 
  • Fresh baked sliced bread and crispy breadsticks are almost always offered free with dinner. 
  • You can eat cheap and casual at a Tavola Caldo, Caffe or' Trattoria. Or you can eat more upscale and formal at an Osteria or Ristorante where large menus, multiple courses and lots of wine are the norm. Dinner (Le Cena) is the largest and most important/formal meal of the day for Italians where full families from grandparents to tiny kids are often present at one table. Around the base I find a handful of Americanized places for that US craving of burgers, burritos, Chinese take out, or weekend bacon eggs, pancakes and toast. I even found 2 AYCE sushi joints within 3 miles of base! Score! Most cheaper small shops and mom and pop places take cash only. No cash, no mangia!
  • Some kind of coffee based drink with a pastry is the norm for breakfast 90% of the time it seems. Lunch is some kind of pizza, a panini, a salad of prosciutto, cheese, tomato, and olive. Or fresh fruit with yogurt and nuts. Nuts of all kinds are big here. Dinner can be anything! Seafood, steak, pasta (almost always pasta), salads, pizza again is a staple with more versions than I ever knew existed. Dessert is more often the expectation versus the exception. Portions across the board are mild compared to the states. Gelato, Tiramisu, Cheesecake, and other torta (cake slices) are the norm for those with a "dolci" tooth. About half of the coffee shops have WiFi and about half do not. Only the bigger shops seem to offer this.
  • Wine is almost always ordered by the bottle at every table with 2 or more people I found. At 10-12 Euro a bottle for amazing house wine......why would you not?!
  • Most meals are quick, casual and brief with more time spent chatting than eating or ordering. Dinner is a spectacle, an event. It's normal to spend 2 hours from arrival to leaving at dinner on weeknights! Weekends its more yet which requires many places to seat by RSVP only as they get full and stay full from this exact lengthy stay the Italians seem to love about dinner.

Lifestyle


Italians here at least so far in this neck of the woods of Aviano that is, are less rushed, less antsy, less annoyed and less angered over everything. They generally seem more lax and mellow. They always say hello (boun giorno) and ciao when eye contact is made. 

Italians are joyed to see "another American" who can break into the conversation using Italian at any level let alone small conversations. They get excited that you are trying to adapt to THEIR language versus an assumption they will just get you and your typical English slang. This has been the most effective way for me to pick up my Italian speaking (and reading) ability since arriving. Talk to the Italians! Even if I mess up (I do!) Its a chance to learn it right and move on. 

Bikers bike! I see bikers at every level on their 2 wheels getting around town. Pro caliber men and women in tights on high tech bikes cruising down the main roads every day early and late. I also see older folks on their cruiser bikes with baskets going to and from shops and homes just as much. 

Old folks walk all over every day! This really impressed me the most of all the things I noticed as different here. An extension of the Sardinian Blue Zone concept perhaps? Men and woman easily age 70+ easy I find walking at a good clip (often up hills) every day on the small backside roads of the towns. When I go to and return from work, I see the same people out walking every day! I feel strongly this lifestyle norm in the geriatric population is the key to their longevity and physical capacity being retained up till their passing. I have not seen one breathing tube, O2 tank, Rascle, wheelchair or for that matter, an overweight Italian person that upon visual would be considered obese. These people don't hit the gym for hours on end and crush weights, log massive miles or take many supplements if any (can wine be a supplement? Please? Anthocyanins!). What I do know they DO previously on concept alone but now from witnessing it myself....is this:

  • drink wine daily
  • eat small portions of all foods (fresh, clean, natural and some that are not)
  • eat dessert daily
  • eat carbs like pasta and bread daily( semolina-based pasta and 100% "00" Italian flour for bread)
  • drink coffee (espresso daily)
  • eat cheese daily
  • walk outside daily through old age
  • keep multiple strong close social circles with family and friends (i love watching groups of old Italian guys gather for wine at night on my hotel patio and talk and laugh) 
  • few seem to smoke

OK.....I left you with a lot to chew on in this post. I had fun writing this one as I had all these mental notes of peculiar nuanced things I kept finding since arriving and to now put them on paper (digital paper) was kinda cool for me. I hope it helps you gain some insights to. 

I have to leave you with some visual treats for your efforts to read this lengthy blog post so to say "Milli Grazie" Here you are.....feast your eyes.


Wine tasting of 6 wines from Le Flavole Winery with group tour. Near Sacile.

Truffles from Italian vendor at BX

Macarons for days from Italian vendor at BX

Cookie assortment bought from 86 Il Gelato, Aviano

"Dining in" dinner with Chianti and salad

Grilled garlic steak on the grill at hotel to complete the meal.


Ciao miei amici! Arrivederci

Thursday, February 7, 2019

One Week Down

Well here we are at week one folks. Seven days today since arriving in Italy. Things are going well so far overall. Most of the week has been in-processing, paperwork, learning the base, learning the who, where what how why of all things working on base and living in Italy. I feel like I am keeping on par with all the big rocks I need to get moved at this point. The only snafu I have encountered is that 5 large USPS boxes I sent to myself from Wisconsin prior to leaving are being sent back home just to then have to be sent back to me again from my folks. All because I put the word Italy on the label! That moved it from APO military mail to standard priority international mail. Despite the label having the rest of the correct info on it, this messed things up for me. So now it may be 2-3 weeks yet before I get these goods. Oh well, could be worse and they be lost completely.



Been doing some darn good eating so far as well. Since I have 0 cooking or meal storage means in my hotel with a microwave and fridge just as small, limits how much food I can buy, store and make at home. A challenge for me as I do 80% or more of my meals made from home. With any luck I will be moving into a home by end of the month which brings me to my next point. House hunting.

I have found 3 places I liked and went to see all 3 of them. One was signed for and taken. I like the other 3 very much. One is a house and one is the complete floor of a 3 story apartment. Each is pretty close to the base and has a quiet, low key rural setting. I plan to make my move and select one by this weekend and start contract/lease work by Monday. Once I pick one I will make sure to show all the pictures of it for you to see yourself also.



I am pretty happy with how well I am able to communicate with local Italians here. I study quite a bit each day with Duolingo, Google Translate and some resources the base gave us for small talk conversations. I find that gets me through 75% of any interaction I have with locals. They key is to keep talking to locals every day even if your wrong or mess up. Every time I get corrected I learn something so no conversation is truly a bad one. Most Italians like the fact they I open with Italian versus English as well.

The midday siesta that almost all business and stores have here from about 12-3 or even 4pm is very different. Everything closes down for 3-4 hours midday and reopens around 3 or 4. Restaurants may not open till 5 or 6 to serve dinner. They remain open until 10 or 11pm here as well all week if not later.

Lastly, as of today I hate to say hit, got hit hard with a nasty flu bug of sorts. It kicked it yesterday a bit but as of this morning hit me full force. The whole package too! Sensitive eyes to light, headache, body aches, chills, queasy stomach and sleepy. Just dandy yeah! I blame a lack of sleep this week to allowing an open season on my immune system to catch anything going around. Ironically I heard that 4 of my 6 unit team members alsoo got sick in their first week here as well. I figure if I am gonna get sick and rebound from it, I mine as well do it early and be done with it! Took the day off from gym and may do the same tomorrow pending how I feel. I know I am truly sick when the idea of eating actually scares me as that never ever, ever happens.



Tomorrow I have a full day bus tour around town with other new base arrivals civilian and active duty. We see a few local cities, hit a popular farm to table lunch spot, a winery, cafe and visit a grocery store. Should be fun!

OK gang, that is all for now. Let me hit you with a dolce (sweet) ending and let you feast on some pictures from the week. Also be sure to follow my daily storylines on facebook and instragram to see the day to day activities I find.

Ciao amici miei (bye my friends)

trio of gelato. straccitella, chocolate and coffee. from cafe centralle 1911

semi sweet red wine from Friuli region (local)

steak and potato from La Masiere Ristorante

prochetta appetizer from La Masiere

grilled veg side dish from New Risto Pizza

Seafood (frutti de mare) pizza from New Risto Pizza

All EU countries base nutrition facts off a fixed 100g serving. Must know the total unit size to know total calories/macros.

1 of 2 areas of fresh seafood at a typical supermarket. this is where I will be coming often for my protein needs!

Sunday, February 3, 2019

First Day

So, let's recap the first 24 hours in Aviano now shall we? Here we go.....

Friday was a busy day and I got a lot done. Starting at 0700 with a pick up from my hotel we got to base to get my CAC ID card completed and done with so I can actually get on base on my own. Then we went over to the hanger that my squadron operates out of to meet the unit members both civilian and active duty. I got to tour the facilities and offices we own as well as see my office space, the gym we use for our PJ's and the sports med area we use for treatment with our guys. I have to say this left me very impressed indeed. The gym although a bit smaller, rivals many well-done DIII college weight rooms I have seen. My team is made of a flight doc (Doc Mitchell) who's a LtCol. A sports med doc (Doc Lax) who is also a LtCol. Then we have an active duty IMT, Rob the ATC, me the strength coach, Anthony the PT and Doc Johnson, the sports psychologist. We also have a couple of support members from medical and rigging teams for treatment and gear needs.

After this, it was off to the nearby city of Pordenone to go get my codice fiscale done with so that I can pretty much get anything else I need from here out from renting a car, paying rent for a house, getting a new cell, paying bills etc. A very important document to have. Then we came back to get me a rental car near base which I did. Its a super small car I am pretty sure I could lift up if I really tried to honestly. But hey, its super good on gas, gets me around just fine and was very affordable so no complaints.



After the car rental was done it was back to base to go get a new SIM card for my phone and set up my post office box. I got both of those done as well. I also made a stop at the BX and Commissary to get some essentials to hold me over for the weekend at least until I do a more formal shopping trip to get other stuff.



I was surprised jetlag did not hit me harder and faster than it did really. I did not get off clean though. My first workout at the gym (2 on base right next to one another) was a struggle. What should have been pretty mild felt really hard and exhausting. The lack of sleep and different time zone was hitting me. I played it safe and did not kill myself in the gym but dialed it back a bit. The 2 gyms on base are really nice. Between the two main gyms and the facility our squadron has, there is no doubt I will have some killer training capacity while here in Italy. Bring on the gains I say!


Wyverns is the "mascot" of the 31st Fighter Wing


After my mediocre workout ended I was, as usual, starved! I had passed an AYCE sushi place a few times on my trips over the day and figured sushi was as good as anything else and being just outside of the base gate, why not go hit that up? So I did. This place rocked! Finding a solid AYCE sushi spot in Aviano Italy? Who knew!? For about $27 USD you get a massive menu of items to pick from and I certainly had my spread of options. This place is going to be a weekly trip for me being so close to base entrance/exit and being so darn good. I'm stoked to know a legit sushi place has been found so early in my arrival here! I know its odd to be getting sushi 24 hours after landing in Italy but hey....I loved sushi in the states so why would I not love it here just the same right? Check out this spread of goodness!













Yes, I ate every single bit of this feast.....myself.




After the long day of productive introduction, tours, task crushing, workouts, car rentals, and dinner, it was time to head home and chill out. I made it up to about 1145pm which for me is an early night. On top of that, I did not wake up till 1015am the next morning! I normally rise without an alarm by 730am so that's a sure sign the jetlag was really setting it. That is where I'll pick up next time.

Ciao miei amici! A piu tardi.